Journeying back through history, meandering through the winding streets of a UNESCO World Heritage old town, or escaping into the rolling beauty of the Dales, Durham has plenty to offer, whatever you’re after.
Reachable in just a couple of hours on the train from Manchester, getting to and from Durham is hassle-free. To ensure we got the best of both worlds, we split our time into two: one day spent in Durham city, and one out in Durham Dales.
Immerse yourself in history at Durham Cathedral & Castle
From the moment you step off the train, Durham’s iconic cathedral is the focal point of the compact city’s skyline, and it takes just 15 minutes to reach on foot from the station. The grand, grade I listed structure, which dates all the way back to 1133, is an architectural marvel that is filled with centuries of fascinating religious history.
Described by UNESCO as the ‘largest and finest example of Norman architecture in England’, the stunning building still holds daily church services, as well as regular concerts and exhibitions, making it an essential stop-off during any trip to Durham.
Just next door, Durham Castle offers another intriguing insight into the city’s past. These days, the castle is actually occupied by students of University College, part of Durham University, making it one of the most unlikely university digs you’re likely to find anywhere. It’s worth noting that for this reason, the only way to explore Durham Castle is by booking a tour.
Get lost in the charm of Durham’s Old Town
Sprawled along the meander of the River Wear, Durham’s winding cobbled streets are picture-book pretty and filled with plenty of great spots for shopping, food and drink.
One such gem that we stumbled into was Belli E Brutti, a delightful little vintage gelateria also serving mouthwatering pizza portafoglia (a famous folded pizza street food hailing from Naples) and excellent shots of espresso.
The Holy GrAle was another lovely find for fans of craft beer, its menu offering a diverse selection of pales, ales, stouts and sours, while Tin of Sardines, described as ‘the city’s smallest gin bar’, stocks an endless array of botanicals that the expert team will happily guide you through based on your own flavour preferences. While unsurprisingly cosy inside, the bar does have outdoor seating along the Elvet Bridge, which is a gorgeous spot for a drink as the sun goes down over the Wear.
For our night in the city, we stayed at the fantastically dramatic Lumley Castle. Blending vintage allure and period features with splashes of luxury, the hotel does a stellar job of transporting guests to a different time. Surrounded by parklands and with views over the Wear and Durham County Cricket Ground, Lumley is certainly cinematic, and is also said to be one of the region’s most haunted buildings…if that’s your kind of thing.
Escape into the tranquility of the Durham Dales and High Force Waterfall
The second half of our trip saw us head away from the city and towards the lush green vistas of the beautiful Durham Dales. Tucked away in the heart of the Dales is Forest-in-Teesdale and the spectacular High Force Waterfall.
Standing at 70ft tall, the phenomenon is known as one of the country’s most impressive feats of nature, and its surroundings offer a breathtaking spot for calm, theatrically soundtracked by the roaring water crashing against the ancient rocks that date back more than 300 million years.
For those looking to extend their time at one with the wilderness, High Force Waterfall forms part of a 4 to 5-mile circular walk along the Pennine Way that can either begin at Bowlees Visitor Centre or the High Force car park.
Just across the road from the entrance to the waterfall is the superb High Force Hotel. The traditional country inn features 10 stylish en-suite rooms that merge comfort with the bags of charm that the building possesses — think swathes of restored woodwork and big open fireplaces — and, whether you’re stopping the night or just dropping by for a post-walk pint, you can bank on a super warm welcome from the friendly team.
The restaurant, which specialises in hearty home cooking, also does some of the best fish and chips you’ll find anywhere, and the hotel hosts regular Stargazing Supper experiences, which sound incredible.
Raby Castle
History buffs and nature-lovers alike are catered for at Raby Castle and its expansive surrounding gardens. The castle itself offers a chance to wander through one of the UK’s best-preserved pieces of medieval history, each room telling its own unique story as you pass through.
Outside, 200 acres of rolling greenery offer various walking routes that range from a quick 20-minute stroll to a longer 45-minute circular path. If you’re lucky, you might even come across the herds of Red or Fallow deer that also call Raby home.
Walk with alpacas
Conveniently located by the market town of Barnard Castle, Teesdale Alpacas is a family-run Alpaca Farm led by the wonderful Doug and Samantha. Over the last 15 years, they’ve been lovingly and responsibly caring for and growing their herd, hosting farm visits and leading treks where the public can spend an hour or two walking side-by-side with these bizarrely brilliant animals.
Our afternoon was spent walking with Henry and Sammy, learning more about the farm as we made our way through the scenic surroundings before stopping by the river to feed our new pals. Throughout the whole thing, Doug and Samantha’s love for the alpacas (and the llamas that have recently joined the family) couldn’t have been more obvious, and getting the chance to spend a few hours with them is a seriously joyful way to spend an afternoon.
For after-walk refuelling, Cross Lanes Organics Farm is just two minutes down the road. Here you can settle down at the restaurant and tuck into an array of dishes that champion local produce, or pick up something to go from the farm shop, which stocks everything from meats and cheeses to organic hot sauces and wine.
- Words:
- Bradley Lengden
- Published on:
- Fri 4 Apr 2025
