48 hours in Florence travel guide: The best things to eat, drink & see

Oozing with history, world-class art, extraordinary food and architectural marvels, it’s little wonder why Florence tops the list for so many when it comes to visiting Italy.

The Tuscan region’s capital and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Florence is the pinnacle of Renaissance beauty, combining grandeur, culture and tradition on a scale that few destinations can match.

Planning a trip to Florence? Take a look through our guide of the best things to eat, drink and see during your trip, all of which you can just about squeeze into a 48-hour visit…just be sure to come hungry.

Where to eat in Florence

Trattoria Mario 

If you make it to one restaurant in Florence, be sure it’s this one. A properly authentic trattoria dating back to 1953, the oak-lined dining room is a truly special place to pull up a chair. Enthusiastic conversations buzz away, punctuated by zealous gesticulations, wine glasses clink endlessly, mostly filled with sublime house red, and the frequent thuds of gargantuan steaks being hacked to size mimic a booming heartbeat behind it all. It’s electric, infectious, and utterly wonderful.

Like many of the old-school trattorias in the city, simplicity is king, and Bistecca alla Fiorentina (Tuscan steak served on the bone) is the star of the show. Served rare — don’t dare ask for otherwise — it’s nothing short of spectacular, and accompanied by a side of beans and garlic spinach, it is just about the perfect advert for what a dining experience in Florence should look like.

It’s worth noting that while many restaurants in the city have a minimum order of 2 people for Bistecca alla Fiorentina, Trattoria Mario offers a smaller cut for those wanting to indulge solo. Another thing to keep in mind is that the restaurant is only open 12pm – 3pm, except on Fridays, when the team opens for an additional evening service 7.30pm – 9pm. Drop them an email to book ahead.

Retrobottega 

Offering an elevated take on the staple Florentine Schiacciata, Retrobottega describes itself as a place to discover ‘traditional flavours reinterpreted in a modern concept.’ Along with mammoth stacked sandwiches, which are generously packed full of premium veggie and non-veggie ingredients, you’ll find a selection of Tuscan and organic wines, craft beers, cocktails and coffee that can be enjoyed in the cosy indoor seating area, or taken away from the window out front and enjoyed out on the piazza in the sunshine.

 

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Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco

Our meal at Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco was an incredibly joyous affair. ‘Being greeted like family’ at a restaurant is often a cliche, but here, it actually feels justified. Located on the ground floor of a 14th-century tower in Borgo San Jacopo, the restaurant is tucked along a charming street filled with antique shops and art galleries.

Much of the building’s original medieval features have been retained; two dining rooms are dramatically adorned with stone arches, and candelit tables are slotted into various cosy nooks. Grilled wild boar steak is the speciality here, and with good reason. 

La Divina Enoteca

Hidden behind the busy leather markets of San Lorenzo, La Divina Enoteca is an oasis for wine lovers. Hundreds of bottles, many from small farms and producers, are on offer, as is an expertly curated selection of rotating wines by the glass. Pair these with a freshly-made sandwich or plate of cold cuts, and it’s dangerously easy to find yourself losing a few glorious hours here.

Where to drink in Florence

Purple Haze

Purple Haze basically became our local during our visit. Despite the bar being just a few minutes from the piazza, its slightly hidden location down a couple of side streets meant it provided a nice respite from the crowds during the day, before becoming a buzzy little corner after dark. Spritzes start at just €5, and we were always made to feel so incredibly welcome by the friendly faces behind the bar on each of our visits…lord knows there were a few.

AMPM

At first glance, AMPM looks like a fairly unassuming wine shop. We quickly discovered, however, that it was a late-night favourite amongst locals, with people spilling out onto the street into the early hours. Cocktails start at €5, and Prosecco is just €3 a glass, so it’s easy to see why the crowds begin to flock here late on.

Virgin Rock Pub

Virgin Rock Pub is perfect for anyone on the hunt for late-night live music and top-notch cocktails. It’s a snug spot, filled with various rock and roll memorabilia, and a packed live calendar covers everything from country and blues to classic rock anthems and jam nights.

 

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Archea Brewery & Birreria Art. 17

Searching for great craft beers in Florence? These two should be high on your list. Archea is a stylish, dimly-lit pub serving a mixture of its own beers and guest pours, largely from other local Tuscan breweries. Likewise, Birreria Art. 17, situated in the lively Sant’Ambrogio neighbourhood, boasts a huge variety of local and international cask and keg beers, and its makeshift pavement seating is flooded with people at the first sight of sun.

The Book Pub

This was another favourite haunt during our stay in Florence. There’s a real ‘local boozer’ feel to The Book Pub, but the sort that makes you feel instantly as welcome as any of the regulars. Old skate videos play in the background, accompanied by a stellar soundtrack of ska and 80s/90s rock. There’s a decent selection of craft beer to work through, as well as popular house cocktails, one of which was some sort of Campari sour, which, yes, is as good as it sounds.

Must-see attractions in Florence

Unsurprisingly, Florence’s main attractions draw massive crowds, particularly in the summer months, so booking ahead is definitely advisable. Official tours can also be handy when skipping the line at key attractions. If you prefer to do things at your own pace, consider a self-guided tour. We used GPSmycity during our visit — the app includes a handful of tours, ranging from food walks to hidden art trails, and was great for dipping in and out of sightseeing between spritzes, without the constraints of needing to be somewhere for a certain time.

• Michelangelo’s David: While we’ve all likely seen pictures of Michelangelo’s masterpiece, it’s difficult to describe just how awe-inspiring the sculpture is in person. Housed within the Academia Gallery, the sheer scale of the piece is mesmerising and is worth the entry fee alone. A lesser-talked-about part of the Academia Gallery is its collection of historic musical instruments, which provides a fascinating insight into the development of the sounds we know and love today. It’s worth booking your tickets a few days in advance, as it can be more expensive on the day. Booking ahead also allows you to skip the general queue during your allocated time slot, which could potentially save you a good hour or two.

• Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore: Florence’s 19th-century marble-lined cathedral is amongst the world’s largest churches, and one of the most inconceivably beautiful examples of neo-Gothic architecture in existence. Entry to the cathedral is free, though expect to wait upwards of an hour during busy periods. Joining the line just before opening time is your best bet for minimising wait times. While Florence’s cathedral is free to enter, other buildings that make up the Duomo complex are ticketed, including Brunelleschi’s Dome, which visitors can climb for phenomenal views across the city, the Baptistery of Saint John, the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Opera del Duomo Museum. Official tickets to visit all of the above can be purchased here.

• Piazza Michelangelo: Yes, it is heaving with people at sunset, but once you reach Piazza Michelangelo, it becomes instantly evident as to why, particularly at sunset. The panoramic vistas from Piazza Michelangelo, which sits up on a hill in the Oltrarno district, are breathtaking, and the aerial view of the sprawling city and proud Duomo has adorned the front cover of just about every travel magazine there has ever been. Don’t let anyone tell you it’s not worth the crowds. We highly encourage grabbing an ice cream from Cantina del Gelato for the walk up the hill, too.

• Piazza della Signoria: The heart of Florence’s political story since the 14th century, the Piazza della Signoria now acts as an open-air sculpture museum, overlooked by the castle-like town hall, Palazzo Vecchio. Here you’ll find the Fountain of Neptune, a replica of Michelangelo’s David and the Loggia dei Lanzi, which is a canopied gallery of yet more impressive statues. The square is also conveniently located right by the famous Uffizi Gallery, which features Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus, Leonardo da Vinci’s Annunciation and Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo.

Want more travel inspiration? Check out our guides to Copenhagen, Cascais and Malaga.