First look: Six by Nico on Spring Gardens launches with ‘The Chippie’

Situated at the top of King Street, next to Hotel Gotham, 60 Spring Gardens has seen a major overhaul in recent weeks – with the pink neon-ness of cocktail bar Roc ‘n’ Rye replaced by the sleek, comparatively understated decor now on show by Six by Nico, which opens this month. It’s award-winning Scottish-Italian chef Nico Simeone’s first foray into England, following on from his Glasgow, Edinburgh and Belfast ventures, which have gained plenty of acclaim. The 64-cover modern bistro launches this week with ‘The Chippie’ – a tasting menu (served through to Sun 18 Aug) that pay homage to the most British of culinary experiences. Across six courses it features ‘Chips & Cheese’ – featuring, controversially, Chinese chippy-style curry oil – plus monkfish ‘Scampi’, beef shin ‘Steak Pie’, and pork belly ‘Smoked Sausage’ – plus the stand-out ‘Fish Supper’ (pictured), showcasing juicy cod, beer-pickled mussels and samphire. Dessert, inevitably, is ‘Deep Fried Mars Bar’, which pairs a forgivingly bite-sized Mars piece with orange sorbet and cocoa nib. The restaurant’s pricing is refreshingly competitive: £29 for the tasting menu plus £26 for matched wines, an  unusual and interesting selection, served in healthy measures. Six by Nico will rotate its tasting menu every six weeks, with each themed around a different place, memory or idea.

Opens Mon 15 Jul, Six By Nico, 60 Spring Gardens, Manchester M2 2BQ, Tel: 0161 832 1815, www.sixbynico.co.uk