Food review: Wood Wednesday – a five-course blind tasting menu – at WOOD Manchester on First Street

Soon to be celebrating its second birthday, WOOD Manchester has established itself as a firm favourite, particularly for those seeking something extra special before catching a film or play at neighbouring HOME. The smart, unfussy First Street restaurant – Chadderton-born chef Simon Wood’s first fine dining venture – has gained a recommendation in this year’s Michelin Guide, as well as being awarded two AA Rosettes. Its regular offers and events include a MasterChef Menu Night (Fri 9 Aug, £75), which is a chance to try the full menu that helped Simon triumph in the MasterChef 2015 competition. We visited mid-week, however, for Wood Wednesday – an all-evening version of the £49, five-course tasting menu usually only available at lunchtime and early evening. Snacks including a duck, rabbit and piccalilli micro pasty and a charcoal, eel and roe macaroon preceded a palate-cleansing first course of pea, asparagus, parmesan and panko. Wood’s take on cottage pie – a moreish dish of beef shortrib, treacle, stout and truffle – was contrasted with a light and refreshing stonebass and chicken dish, with potters malt (aka Horlicks) foam. The menu’s richness returned, however, with an assiette of lamb, made up of three cuts, plus Bosworth Ash goats cheese, honey and lavender. A dainty Oreo-style chestnut- and rhubarb-flavoured pain d’epice provided a second palate refresher before dessert: an excellent citrus tutti-frutti that rounded off this creative and satisfying experience – filled with plenty of variety throughout its well-portion dishes. Vegetarian substitutions included a surprisingly spicy butternut Thai red curry, plus the show-stealing wild mushroom tortellini (pictured), as well as a jacket potato, beetroot, truffle and asparagus dish. The wine list, meanwhile, offers around a dozen options by the glass (£6.80-£12.50) or carafe (£17.50-£34), as well as an extensive range of bottles (from £25). With constant experimentation and its patron-pleasing ventures (see also its recent Meat and Mead night and upcoming New World vs. Old World Wine Dinner), WOOD Manchester will continue to attract fans, both old and new.

WOOD Manchester, Jack Rosenthal Street, First Street, Manchester, M15 4RA. Tel: 0161 236 5211, Advance booking is essential – call 0161 236 5211 and quote ’Wood Wednesday’, www.woodmanchester.com