Situated down a steep cobbled street from Stockport’s Market Place, The Allotment opened recently following a couple of months of excitement and anticipation. How would an upmarket vegan and gluten-free restaurant fare in the Cheshire town, not known for its foodie offerings? But, as Stockport itself progresses – you now pass two brewery taps on the short walk from the train station – The Allotment makes a giant leap for the town’s vegan-friendly provision. This permanent venture in Stockport’s Old Town is the brainchild of local chef Matthew Nutter and partner Siobhan Jordan, following months popping up in Wigan, Bolton, Huddersfield, Chorlton and Liverpool. Our taster menu featured a hummos selection (pictured), served with locally grown beetroots in three colours, sweet potato and wild mushroom soup, with a salty kick from fried capers. ‘Autumn grill’, the largest course, pairs a confit aubergine fillet with a leek, mint and rosemary buckwheat sausage, supplemented by wholegrain mustard, pureed celeriac, plus wild mushroom, chantenay carrot and pumpkin. Yet more flavours are combined in this dish with the addition of dark vegetable jus, caramelised onion and thyme-roasted boulangerie potato. The dish is a meal in itself, as the sheer number of ingredients imply – and they combine to produce something satisfying and even slightly Christmas dinner-y. Chocolate orange and buckwheat brownie follows, plus a ‘cheeseboard’ featuring a macadamia garlic roulé and cashew nut cheese. It’s an ingenious journey through a world of vegan and gluten-free possibilities. At £55, the taster menu doesn’t come cheap – but an à la carte option is available, and the restaurant’s bring-your-own-booze policy at least softens the blow.
The Allotment Vegan Restaurant, 6 Vernon Street, Stockport, SK1 1TY, Tel: 0161 478 1331, Thu – Sat 5pm – 11pm, Sun 12pm – 4pm, www.theallotment.info, @pfp_chef
- Words:
- Chris Horkan
- Published on:
- Mon 31 Oct 2016
