Last last year, chef Andrew Green moved from The Lowry to Hotel Indigo beside Victoria Station. The Manchester-born, multi-AA-Rosette winning chef has an exacting style, which involves turning local ingredients into dishes that feel like a treat. Sure, there’s a cheffy vibe going on – smears, drizzles and vegetables which have been turned into marbles – but Green’s talent is such that it all just works. We share the Lancashire Hotpot (£22.50 – perfect Herdwick Lamb, confit ‘leg parcel’), and a towering Cheshire beef fillet, sliced over on sticky ox cheek suet pudding (£29). The annoying/great thing about Green’s menu is that you just want to eat it all; Blackstick blue dauphinoise potatoes, for example, and the chef’s signature Beef Wellington (£65 for two). Lobster (£39.95) and Dover Sole with Morecambe Bay shrimp butter (prices vary) round the menu out, while chickpea fritters (£7.50 – a riff on the new chip on the block, Sicilian panelle) and a nutty, wild mushroom and buckwheat risotto (£12.95) are strong veg options. Manchester Tart (£7.50 – custard tart, homemade raspberry jam, banana crisps, shaved coconut) is a feat of tasteful deconstruction – and a food-based tug of war ensues over the Trinity Burnt Cream (£7.50, caramel crumb, wild berries, mini Eccles cakes). I love the sound of Bread and Peanut Butter Pudding too (all £7.50). Other ingredients, such as service, wine (the robust Machoman Monastrell £35 is excellent) and Sazerac cocktails (£10.50) are spot on at this surprisingly classy newcomer.
Mamucium at Hotel Indigo, 6 Todd Street, Manchester M3 1WU. Tel: 0161 359 7498, www.mamuciummcr.com
Published on: Mon 18 Feb 2019