Manchester’s Store Street restaurant has just launched a new pie menu, in association with award-winning pie makers, The Great North Pie Company. While still being very much a hotel restaurant, Store Street has really grown into itself since opening in 2016. Service feels more confident and relaxed and I pair a Great North Pie Company’s steak and ale pie (£14.50) with the house 16oz t-bone (£32) for a serious meat feast. Perfect sides include skin-on chips, and peppercorn sauce, while the clutch of starters we try all have local links; Bury black pudding and apple sausage roll (£5.95), for example, as well as my personal favourite – smoked haddock croquettes (£5,95). More cream than fish, and more smoke than seafood, this kippery indulgence kicks off a surprisingly enjoyable meal. Desserts are straightforward; there’s a ice cream, and a melting chocolate pudding to share which is a great choice. Wines are simple and good with a slight South African bias (the Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Pinotage, £27.95, gets excellent reviews) and cocktails have improved 200% on my last visit. I have the bourbon-based Roy Roy (£9.75) but the Cuban Mule, Cucumber Gimlet and Manchester Bee would be worth exploring at this much improved hotel restaurant. Despite having teamed up with a host of local and regional producers, it’s still offering reasonably priced grill-style food, in a relaxed setting. Ideal for a Friday night wind down, or working lunch or dinner.

Store Street Manchester One Piccadilly Place, 1 Auburn Street, Manchester M1 3DG. Tel: 0161 242 1000, www.storestreetmanchester.co.uk

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Fri 12 Apr
Words:
Ruth Allan
Published on:
Fri 12 Apr 2019