Food review: Tre Ciccio, Bramhall’s basic-to-basics new Italian restaurant

A new branch of Italian restaurant Tre Ciccio has opened in Bramhall, with a third planned for Ramsbottom later this year. The small chain launched in Altrincham a couple of years ago, fast becoming a destination for Neapolitan pizza and roast chicken. And the Bramhall venue looks the part. Pizza ovens glow, tins of olive oil line the walls, and bags of fine-grade flour slouch against the bar. It feels a bit like Jamie’s Italian – only the real deal. Start with cured meats, burrata, dough balls and cheeses (we had a burrata special and bocconcini fritti; lightly fried and crumbed buffalo mozzarella cheese bites with crispy basil and San Marzano tomato sauce, both £6.50) while pizza is served chewy and tastefully charred. Capricciosa (prosciutto cotto, marinated artichokes, olives, portobello mushrooms, tomato sauce and fior di latte cheese, £10.95) is a great choice and fried courgette (£8.95), tuna and Pulcinella (with Salami Napoli, roast aubergine, mozzarella – both £12.50) look promising. Since reading Salt Fat Acid Heat by Samin Nosrat, I’ve been seeking a chicken that matches her description of the buttermilk-marinated ones she cooked when she was a chef at Chez Panisse: Tre Ciccio’s caramel-skinned birds are the closest I’ve found. Tre Ciccio uses award-winning suppliers Johnson and Swarbrick and the ‘Pollo Alla Diavola’ is one of four choices (£12 for half, £23.95 for a whole bird) all of which come with roast wedges (pictured). Desserts are reasonable – think tiramisu, affogato, panna cotta and so on. In fact, the only unauthentic thing about the whole thing is watery cocktails.

Tre Ciccio, 26 Bramhall Lane South, Bramhall, Stockport SK7 1AF. Tel: 0161 439 8080, www.treciccio.co.uk