Rogan & Co is multi-Michelin-star chef Simon Rogan’s second restaurant in Cartmel, Cumbria. Situated in an atmospheric 14th-century building overlooking the River Eea, it brings to mind a gorgeously upmarket pub; all stone walls and cosy tables.

Just a short stroll from his original restaurant L’Enclume which now has three Michelin stars – and a green star on top – the cooking is honestly on a par. Described by the team as a ‘neighbourhood restaurant’, enjoy three courses, with loads of snacks and tasters for a set price of £79, day or night.

Starters such as Old Winchester cheese dumplings in an onion broth showcase the floral yet balanced house style, alongside ‘snacks’ such as a bite-sized eel mousse tart. Fish is stunning too. We tried both the cod and turbot, generously portioned and served with hand-picked herbs and a parmesan crust.

Slow cooked Dexter beef (pictured above) is a Rogan classic, while desserts combine tradition (who doesn’t love a melting chocolate pudding?) with fresh foams and more flowers. I would eat the delicate buttermilk custard with seasonal fruit granita for every meal if I could.

And let’s not forget the drinks. Every time I’ve been to one of Rogan’s restaurants, his team have introduced me to some incredible, slightly off the beaten track delights which create their own special memories long after. In this case, it was a pink-tinged Basil Martini (amazing) and a glass of Roc’h Avel Terre De L’Elu a Loire Valley white, with hints of saline and aniseed.

Just a 90 minute drive way, the Rogan & Co menu is a Midsummer dream. It’s only available for a couple more months though, so be quick and make a day of it.

Old Winchester Cheese Dumplings in an onion broth at Rogan and Co in Cartmel
Old Winchester Cheese Dumplings in an onion broth
Grilled Turbot with leeks and miso at Rogan and Co in Cartmel
Grilled Turbot with leeks and miso at Rogan and Co in Cartmel
Buttermilk custard, strawberries and shiso
Handmade salted caramel chocolates at Rogan and Co in Cartmel
Handmade salted caramel chocolates at Rogan and Co in Cartmel
Rogan and Co in Cartmel
Rogan and Co in Cartmel
Thu 11 Aug, Rogan and Co,
Devonshire House, Devonshire Square, Cartmel, Grange-over-Sands LA11 6QD
, Tel: 015395 35917, £79, Varies
www.roganandco.co.uk
Words:
Ruth Allan
Published on:
Wed 17 Aug 2022