After the success of chef Simon Shaw’s Spanish-inspired El Gato Negro on King Street, he opened branches in Liverpool and Leeds. Manchester’s standalone Portuguese, Canto, followed in 2018 – and his latest venture, Habas, has just opened on King Street.
This impressive restaurant – which seats literally hundreds, yet still manages to feel cosy – sees Shaw moving his culinary expertise from Spain to the Levant, and he’s certainly enjoying himself in the kitchen.
Sumptuous El Gato-type-takes on Middle Eastern classics abound. King-sized feta and sun blush tomato filo cigars (£8.50) rub shoulders with skewers of tenderlicious marinated lamb (£12). There are cute half jackets, scooped out and stuffed with warmly spiced mince (£8.50) while desserts include sticky date pudding (£6.50) and cheesecakes topped with pure Turkish Delight (£6.50. Be warned: this is big enough to share but too good to part with). Tuck into pillowy handmade pitas for just £1 – or the house flatbread (£3.50) cooked to order and served with a facemeltingly garlicky chimichurri-style dip.
Cocktails are tastefully sharp too. The Johnny Walker and soda based Transit to Yerevan (£9), for example, and a non-alcoholic homage to the Bellini (£4.50). For wine fans, there’s an excellent Pinot from Romania (£28) and cherry-rich Hochar Pere et Fils 2017 Lebanese red; a less premium but no less brilliant line from Bekaa Valley’s iconic Chateau Musar (£10.20 by the glass, £49 bottle).
Sure, it’s a far cry from authentic Middle Eastern restaurants like London’s Barbary and Aladdin in Withington but Shaw’s army of fans are going to love it. Plus there’s a great value lunch at £15 for 3 courses, or £17.50 with a Beirut beer.
www.habas.co.uk
- Words:
- Ruth Allan
- Published on:
- Tue 6 Jul 2021
