Well. It happened again. Another Michelin ceremony has passed and Manchester was left empty-handed.

Despite this year’s ceremony being held here at the city’s Midland Hotel, the new star list was largely a London affair, with Mana remaining Manchester’s only representative on the coveted list thanks to the star the team was awarded back in 2018.

One of the city’s most exciting recent openings, Higher Ground, had been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand before the evening, which many were hoping may have been a promising sign of things to come.

There were still causes for celebration north of the capital though. Yorkshire’s, mýse earned its first star, described by the Michelin team as one of the year’s best openings, the stripped-back pub’s tasting menu was celebrated for its ‘originality and great depth of flavour.’

Two new stars headed to Cumbria. Cedar Tree by Hrishikesh Desai saw the esteemed chef awarded a star once again, having previously held one for six years during his time at the now-closed HRiSHi. Based inside Farlam Hall Hotel, Hrishikesh’s Indian heritage has shaped the stunning menu.

The other went to Ambleside’s Lake Road Kitchen. Chef-Owner James Cross’ globally-influenced tasting menu was described as ‘flowing with ease from one skilful dish to the next, with each one demonstrating balance, restraint and harmonious flavour combinations.’

An additional Michelin Green Star, the accolade introduced in 2021 to celebrate restaurants with a clear commitment to sustainable practices, was awarded to Yorkshire’s Forge. Set in the glorious Middleton Lodge Estate, the restaurant largely relies on its own two-acre kitchen garden when it comes to shaping its menus. Forge’s Jake Jones also took home Michelin’s Young Chef Award.

Bradley Lengden
Published on:
Tue 6 Feb 2024